Ristorante Osteria La Traviata (Bologna)

Seeing as I am a food-obsessed individual who’s been living in Bologna for nearly 6 years, it’s probably no surprise that many people ask me for advice on where to eat in town. (As I mentioned in my post about the Antica Trattoria della Gigina.) When they do, I generally propose places that serve Bolognese cuisine. I also recommend the kind of places that I prefer – spots that are comfortable, traditional, serve great food, and won’t necessarily break the bank. Another priority is to make sure that the pasta is handmade. (As it should be in a city famous for its fresh pasta!) The Ristorante Osteria La Traviata fits all of these requirements. It is a favorite of mine.

La Cucina Bolognese

One of the obvious reasons that I often suggest this restaurant is because I believe they have good food. In particular, I feel they serve wonderful traditional Bolognese fare. That has to be a given! The Ristorante Osteria La Traviata serves all of the city’s iconic dishes such as Tagliatelle al Ragù, Tortellini in Brodo, Lasagne Verde alla Bolognese and other non-pasta dishes such as Cotolette alla Bolognese (a delicious and decadent cholesterol bomb consisting of a breaded veal cutlet cooked in butter then topped with Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese until melted, sometimes with truffles). These are dishes one must try when coming to Bologna. Be sure not to miss them. La Traviata is also attractive and charming.

La sfoglina…

However, one of my main motivations for loving La Traviata is Manuela, the sfoglina (pasta maker) and owner. Why? Well, for one, she creates pasta magic in the kitchen. Her pasta is fresh, handmade, and rolled out with a rolling pin in the traditional manner. Yes! For these reasons alone, I adore her. Furthermore, she is utterly delightful.

A personal touch and seasonality

Did you note that I know the pasta maker’s name? This is because Manuela doesn’t stay hidden in the kitchen. This lovely woman is a part of the experience of the restaurant. She’s its heart. In fact, she frequently takes orders from the clientele. As she does, she rattles off what she cooked that day, often pulling up a chair to chat while doing so. This makes me happy. Really happy. In addition, she frequently offers to prepare things off of the standard menu based on what’s fresh and in season at the moment.

It might not sound particularly out of the norm to offer specials, but it’s not common in many restaurants in Bologna. Particularly perplexing is the sparse use of fresh vegetables. In Bologna, I see gorgeous produce at the markets but I don’t see it represented well at the city’s restaurants. At least not at many old-school places. It’s rather odd. Manuela highlights these quality ingredients and, for me, this is very important. “I have nice artichokes today, would you like fried artichokes to start?” Why, yes… “I have some fresh porcini that just came in. Or, I could make a porcini sauce with a little prosciutto and serve this on some tagliatelle. OK?” Um, please… I love this woman!

Pasta obsession

Clearly, I usually order pasta when I go to La Traviata. I prefer pasta to main courses as a rule and as the person making the pasta is usually offering to make delicious creations for me, I go with that! However, they have main courses too of course and I’ve sampled many. You’ll see things like roasted rabbit, guinea fowl, pork and beef dishes and any number of meat offerings. What I have had has been good. For side dishes, you can order a salad, grilled or stuffed vegetables, roasted potatoes, and you can simply ask if she has any vegetable on offer that might not be on the menu and she’ll probably whip something up.

Let’s talk briefly about starters. (I seem to be going backwards…) A specialty of the area is something called crescentine or in other areas of the region, gnoccho fritto. It is fried dough, usually served with cured meats and local cheeses such as squacquerone. When prepared well, they are light, hot, crisp and delicate. If you want to splurge, get this deliciousness. There is a slicing machine right in the dining room so any cured meat you order will be sliced fresh and is always high quality. I’m beginning to drool…

To finish your meal, the desserts are uber traditional and house-made. Things like Tiramisù, Zuppa Inglese, Panna Cotta, and Bologna’s famous Torta Tenerina (a very light, often flourless chocolate cake) are usually on offer.

Final thoughts

As with any advice of this kind, it is subjective. I have had nothing but good experiences at this restaurant. I’ve gone countless times with friends and family. (Including fellow pasta makers.) The atmosphere is relaxed, yet not without elegance. If you want really fancy food, with cheffy plating, this is not what La Traviata is about. If, on the other hand, you want real Bolognese food, made with love, then I think you’ll be happy. Note, this is all my personal opinion and I am not being paid in any way to write this review.

The Ristorante Osteria La Traviata is in the city center, under its beautiful porticos. I hope you take note of it and go if you come to this lovely city. I would recommend booking just to be safe. Please let me know if you do and if you enjoyed it. If you need more dining advice, please read my article here on dining out in Italy.