Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe (Orecchiette alle Cime di Rapa) is an iconic and treasured dish from the region of Puglia. I adore it. For one thing, it includes one of my favorite pasta shapes of all time – fresh orecchiette. I love making them and I certainly love eating them! They are little whimsical cups of joy filled with tasty sauce. Then there is broccoli rabe – another ingredient I can’t get enough of. Not only is it an utterly scrumptious vegetable but it’s incredibly good for you (win-win). Then, you season those already glorious ingredients with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, anchovy, and chili. What could be better? Below I will share my recipe, take you through how to make it, and tell you all you need to know to prepare this simple, traditional, and delicious dish.
Even though I’ve been making orecchiette with broccoli rabe for years, I’ve always made it by eye without a specific recipe. Next week I am teaching a pasta lesson that will feature this dish and I saw it as an opportunity to write down and share my ultimate version. I did a deep dive into research and took a look at typical techniques to make the dish and what is most common in all aspects. I’m really happy with the results. It’s traditional and suited to my taste. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do! Let’s get going and break down the ingredients and process.
Ingredients for Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe
Orecchiette with broccoli rabe is a simple and humble dish. In addition to the ingredients above, it can be garnished with toasted bread crumbs if desired. (Cheese is usually not used). That’s it. As with any Italian recipe, considering how few ingredients there are, you will want to use the best quality ingredients available. That’s why the food can taste so incredible in Italy, the ingredients are so often stellar. When you eat in season, harvest produce at its peak and grow it for flavor, not transport, eating simply is a joy because the ingredients themselves are inherently so flavorful, yummy, and satisfying. With food of this quality, you don’t need to do much to it.
Those of you in the USA may have noticed that this dish doesn’t contain sausage. In America, orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage is the norm. In Puglia however, the traditional dish leaves it out. You will see recipes for broccoli rabe and sausage in Italy as well, but it’s considered a twist on the classic. I’ve come across that preparation much less in my travels to Puglia. Even though this sausage-free sauce may not be what you’re used to, I hope you give it a try because it’s so good. Without the sausage, it’s also rather guilt-free!
Bari Vecchia
Orecchiette alle Cime di Rapa is especially popular in Bari where orecchiette are so prized. There is a famous street in old Bari called the Strada Arco Basso where you see ladies sitting in front of their houses making orecchiette all day. It’s an amazing sight to see. I had to go stalk visit them every day when I was in Bari. I couldn’t resist. The technique they use to make the pasta is extremely difficult to master. I am close to getting it down but have work to do!
The orecchiette
As I mentioned, for this recipe you will need fresh orecchiette (meaning “little ears” due to their shape). You can either make the pasta yourself or purchase it. Dried orecchiette are not the same, so I encourage you either to prepare them or to find them fresh at a specialty market.
Although I give instructions below as to how to make the dough and shape, I feel that pasta-making is easier to learn visually. Therefore I’m sharing a couple of video links to help you out. In this video, I teach how to make the dough. This versatile dough made out of finely ground durum wheat (semola di grano duro rimacinata) and water works for a wide variety of shapes such as cavatelli, orecchiette, busiate, maccheroni al ferro, and many more. It’s a wonderful dough to learn because so many pasta shapes from the center and south of Italy are prepared with it. If you liked Play-Doh as a kid, you will have fun with this pasta dough!
For shaping take a look at this video tutorial. There are a variety of techniques that you can use. Here is another video of me shaping them with a slightly different technique. Orecchiette take some practice to get right. I was happy with mine after my third or fourth batch. My first batches, not so much! They were too thick and uneven, not to mention ugly. Be patient with yourself. Pasta making is fun and can be therapeutic. (At least I find it so.) Just have a good time and enjoy the fruits of your labor. With practice, you will get better and better and you get to eat yummy things along the way as you learn.
Notes on Orecchiette
If you do make your own pasta, let the orecchiette dry out for 20-30 minutes to an hour before you cook them. (They can even be left out for as long as 5 hours.) Although you can cook them right away, I think they benefit from that drying time. They hold their shape and their ridges a bit more. You need and want those ridges for the sauce to cling to. Generally, fresh orecchiette take 5-6 minutes to cook. Keep in mind that if you air dry them for a long time, they may need a slightly longer cooking time.
Personally, I do not like to dry pasta at home. If I make it fresh, I want it fresh. Homemade dried pasta never cooks evenly afterwards. Even the orecchiette that we bought fully dried in Bari cooked unevenly. The batch we bought that was only semi-dried was great. There is a reason why artisan dried pasta is done by people who know what they’re doing. You need the skill, experience, and temperature control to get it right. Leave it to the experts.
If you want to make the orecchiette ahead of time, you can air dry them until they feel like they won’t stick to each other. Then you can then refrigerate them on a sheet tray until the next day, tossing with a touch of flour if that makes you feel safer. You can also freeze partially dried orecchiette. Place them on a sheet tray in a single layer, not touching and freeze them. Once frozen you can store them in a freezer bag. Cook them directly from the freezer. There is no need to defrost them.
The broccoli rabe
My goodness did I go down a rabbit hole looking up this key ingredient. Mercy! I wanted to be able to communicate about it logically and clearly but there is a lot of confusing information out there about it! I will do my best to decipher what I read.
What’s in a name?
First of all, broccoli rabe is a member of the Brassicaceae family that includes vegetables such as cabbage, arugula, radishes, cauliflower, broccoli, and turnip. It has a pleasantly bitter flavor (Italians have a special love for bitter vegetables). What’s confusing about it is the variety of names for it. As with so many things in Italy, there are a slew of names that change from region to region. Most commonly you’ll hear cime di rapa. It is a vegetable that is popular and/or grown in many regions such as Puglia (cime di rapa), Campania (friarielli), Lazio (broccoletti), Calabria (broccoli di rapa), Tuscany (rapini), Umbria, Basilicata, Sicily (mazzareddri), and Molise. (These are just some names…)
The confusing part is trying to suss out if they are all the same vegetable. The answer is yes and no. There are different varieties of broccoli rabe in Italy. Some of the name changes are due to varietal differences and others are purely dialectal. One could go mad trying to sort it out. There are subtle differences between the varieties such as the duration of growing time, when you plant it, how big it gets, what part of the plant you harvest… Oy. Sometimes the varietal will be named after the place it’s grown and other times, it will be named with a number based on the period between planting and harvest.
Nature’s Bounty
This assortment of cultivars and growing times creates a long growing season which is fabulous. You’ll usually see broccoli rabe arrive at the market in the fall and it lasts until early spring. I’m excited every autumn when broccoli rabe arrives at the market for the first time.
For those interested, here is a link to a seed company from Italy that sells many of the varieties. It’s cool to see how many there are. Puglia grows the largest quantity of cime di rapa in Italy therefore many of the types are from there. Either way, they are all delicious and I will leave the arguing about all of the similarities and differences to others…
Names outside of Italy
Thankfully, outside of Italy, it is all less confusing. In the USA it normally goes by broccoli rabe. There is only one kind available (Andy Boy is usually the brand). Other names include broccoli raab, broccoli rape, or rapini. I believe it goes by the same handful of names in Australia. What you don’t want is broccolini which is a different vegetable. Phew…
How to prepare broccoli rabe
As for how to prep it, I give clear instructions below. The thing to keep in mind is that for this dish, you don’t want a lot of stems. I tend to keep more of the stems attached when I am using broccoli rabe as a side dish. For orecchiette with broccoli rabe, however, I use the tender leaves and the florets. You can keep some of the smaller, more tender stems if you wish. Throw out any yellow or damaged bits and larger, tough leaves.
According to some Barese cooks, the variety of broccoli rabe that is ideal for the dish is a type that mainly has florets as pictured above. It supposedly creates a very creamy sauce as the pasta and vegetable combine together. With the more common leafier broccoli rabe that I found at the market (see the pic below), I was able to obtain a creamy sauce anyway due to my cooking method.
The amount of vegetable that you will be left with after cleaning is generally half of the weight of the bunch. So, for example, if you have 1 kg (1000 g) of broccoli rabe to start, usually you will have about 1/2 kg (500 g) left more or less. Don’t worry too much if you have less or extra. This is not a pastry recipe. Sometimes if a bunch has a lot of stems the yield will be less. I’d say that if you have a ratio of at least one to one by weight of pasta to vegetable, you’ll be golden.
The sauce & condiment
Garlic
Let’s talk about the garlic. Please use fresh garlic and not pre-peeled garlic. Pre-peeled garlic is generally dried out and can have an off smell. Most of those beautiful oils and aromas are gone. As far as how to prep the garlic, there are options. You can leave the garlic whole by smashing it and leaving it in its skin, smash it and peel it, halve it, slice it, or mince it. I’ve seen it all and which one you choose depends on preference. For the most garlic flavor, I’d go with mincing and that’s what I prefer. If you want only a hint of garlic flavor, go with the smashed garlic and take it out once it has released its flavor into the oil.
After making the recipe for the first time, you’ll see if you want to add more or use less garlic in the recipe. Cater it to your family’s preference.
Anchovy
Anchovy haters need to give the anchovy a try in this recipe! If you don’t know, anchovy imparts an incredible umami flavor. It makes everything taste better and most people would not know it was there if no one told them. Believe me. If you like Thai or Vietnamese food then you’ve enjoyed anchovy. Fish sauce (made from anchovies) is a staple in both cuisines and makes everything super delectable.
You may use anchovies in oil or salted anchovies for the dish but in the recipe below I suggest anchovies in oil because they are easier to find. I recommend that you seek out anchovies from Sicily, Calabria, Genoa, or Spain. They are all wonderful and meaty. Anchovies from elsewhere are often bony and overly salty. Be aware.
Chili
Orecchiette with broccoli rabe is not supposed to be super spicy but does contain a little heat. When I was in Puglia I thought that I’d taste the chili much more but it was very subtle.
I prefer to use a fresh chili like a Calabrese, Cayenne, or Thai Bird. I generally smash it a bit or cut it in half length-wise just to let it perfume the oil. Alternatively, you can add a few thin slices from the tip. I wouldn’t go overboard. If you cannot find a fresh chili, feel free to use crushed red chili flakes but take care not to burn them.
To Top Your Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe
Usually I garnish my orecchiette with broccoli rabe with just a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil. The dish doesn’t even need black pepper. Although that seems to be the most common presentation, some like to sprinkle toasted bread crumbs on top. For one thing, it looks good. Secondly, it adds a great crunch. I prefer to use fresh bread crumbs for this. To prepare them, simple take off the crust of a good quality hearty Italian bread and pulse in a food processor until you have nice bread crumbs. I leave instructions below on how to toast them. I love to use garlic in the toasting process for extra flavor.
Most recipes that I’ve seen don’t use cheese. Omit it. I have come across a few cooks that top the dish with cacioricotta cheese from Puglia but seeing as most of us can’t find it, don’t bother seeking it out. It doesn’t need it.
The process
In the recipe below I describe my preferred method for cooking orecchiette with broccoli rabe. It’s one of three main ways that I’ve seen cooks prepare it in the Pugliese kitchen. I describe them all because you might find you prefer to use one technique over another. The quantities of the ingredients stay exactly the same and this way you can do what makes you comfortable as a cook. They are as follows:
- My preferred way is to boil the broccoli rabe partially in salted water, then add the orecchiette to the pot. Once they are both almost done, they get cooked together for the last minute in a skillet with the garlic, anchovy, and chili that you prepare while the pasta and broccoli rabe are boiling. This combined cooking technique is easy, streamlined, and allows the flavors to meld perfectly.
- The second approach is to par-cook the broccoli rabe in boiling water and then remove it after about 5 minutes. Then, you finish cooking the broccoli rabe in the sauce with pasta water until the vegetable is the desired doneness. Next, you boil the orecchiette in the broccoli rabe water and for the last minute of cooking finish the pasta and broccoli rabe together with the sauce to combine the flavors. This technique allows the most control over cooking times.
- Lastly, par-cook the broccoli rabe, and, before you add the orecchiette, remove a small amount of the broccoli rabe with some pasta water and blend it in a mini blender so that some of the sauce is pureed. Then, add the orecchiette, puree, and broccoli rabe together for the last minutes of cooking with the sauce in the skillet.
Make it your own
Whichever way sounds right to you, go for it. I leave instructions below for method number one. No matter what you choose, make sure to cook the pasta in the broccoli rabe water because you want the vegetable flavor to infuse into the pasta.
Substitutions
Broccoli rabe may be difficult for some of you to find. Feel free to use regular broccoli. The flavor won’t be the same and will lack that wonderful bitterness but it will still be delicious. If you use broccoli, use the second method that I describe above. Use pasta water as necessary to create a creamy sauce and you can even use a potato masher to mush up the broccoli. You don’t want it al dente!
Lastly, if you don’t want to make fresh pasta and can’t find fresh orecchiette at a store near you, use dried orecchiette or even penne. In this case, put the pasta into the boiling water right away with the broccoli rabe as it takes much longer to cook. If the dried pasta you choose takes over 10-11 minutes to cook, you may need to add it before the broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe should only cook for about 10-11 minutes total before it’s added to the sauce at the end of cooking.
Last thoughts
If you are interested in making fresh pasta, I have many recipes for you to try such as my Ricotta and Spinach Ravioli, Rosette al Forno, and Tortellini in Brodo.
Now to the recipe. Enjoy!
The garlic can be used according to your taste, it can be smashed or cut in half and removed, or, it can be sliced, or minced depending on how much garlic flavor you prefer. For ease, I use jarred anchovies in oil because they are easier to find. You may also use salted anchovies that are well cleaned and de-salted. In that case, use only 2.Ingredients
Instructions
Notes
4 comments
Wow, this has got to be the ultimate treatise on this marvelous dish! I especially liked your discussion of the different names and varieties of broccoli rabe in Italy. I remember it took me a while before I figured out that the friarielli I read about in Neapolitan recipes were just broccoli rabe by another name.! And your photo reminds me how I wish we had the Barese variety around here. When I had this dish in Bari, I remember being surprised just how delicate the flavor was compared with the broccoli rabe I was used to in the US.
Anyway, I love orecchiette with broccoli rabe. It’s dear to my heart as my paternal grandfather Lorenzo was from a small town just outside of Bari, which I finally got to visit last year. And as I said before only this way. I tried it once with sausage and it didn’t do much for me. For me, it’s anchovies all the way.
Oh, thanks Frank! I’m such a fan of your work so I’m so thrilled when you stop by and read my posts. I loved your post on this dish as well. As for friarielli versus cime di rapa… Oh boy, that was the rabbit hole! They do seem to be the same plant but not exactly the same. It was the most confusing thing in the world to me, it’s the same but not the same. Friarielli seem to be harvested earlier and they use a specific part of the plant and some people were using the same latin word and others weren’t. There are countless articles online that supposedly answer definitively whether they are the same thing and people wrote different things. (All of these articles show that Italians are confused too!) If you look at the vegetables, they look slightly different. I think a farmer or experienced gardener might need to be consulted! Can the same latin plant name still have hybrids that lead to different flavor profiles and growing times? What a mess! Bari is fabulous. I need to go to Puglia more. Like Calabria (where my dad was from), it’s so far away. If you look up some Italian articles on the two veggies and understand better, please let me know!
Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe (Orecchiette alle Cime di Rapa) is truly a culinary treasure from Puglia, Italy, and your description captures its essence beautifully. The combination of fresh orecchiette, whimsically shaped like little ears, with the robust flavors of broccoli rabe, anchovy, garlic, and chili, highlights the simplicity and depth of Italian cuisine. Your detailed insights into the regional variations and preparation techniques add depth to this dish, making it more approachable for anyone looking to recreate this traditional recipe. As someone who cherishes both the process of making and savoring this dish, your passion shines through, making it irresistible to try. Grazie for sharing your love and expertise with us!
Thanks for reading! Yes, it is a glorious dish. I hope you do give it a try!