Bagna Cauda (Piedmontese Warm Anchovy & Garlic Sauce)

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Bagna Cauda from Piedmont is one of those iconic dishes that you come across repeatedly when you read about Italian cuisine. What it is, at its simplest, is a warm sauce of garlic and anchovies slowly cooked in extra virgin olive oil until soft and luscious, served in autumn with seasonal raw and cooked vegetables. It’s not just a dish but a communal event shared with friends and family. (Red wine flowing…) If you hear the recipe described – it doesn’t necessarily sound appealing or interesting at first. However, once you taste it and experience a proper Bagna Cauda, it becomes very interesting indeed! Below, I provide an authentic Bagna Cauda recipe and discuss the history of this splendid dish.

A culinary bucket list item checked off…

Even though I’d been aware of this dish for over 20 years, I’d never tasted it until last year in Turin. (I had a brief and awesome girl weekend there with my cousin, Vanessa.) Like Risi e Bisi in Venice that I wrote about here and here, it’s not very easy to find in restaurants. After some hunting, I tracked down a place that served it called the Antica Bruschetteria Pautasso and rather forced her to try it with me. She humored me but was skeptical. All it took was one taste to be utterly hooked. It ended up being positively delicious. Moreover, it was fun to eat!

After our return to Bologna, I decided to prepare it at home for her and my family. (We really wanted to eat it again…) I did a ton of research on Bagna Cauda, tracking down all of the information that I could. As I often do, I obsessed… I read about it extensively online, I watched YouTube videos of Italians making it, I read cookbook after cookbook, learning about the history and customs surrounding the dish. Eventually, I settled on a recipe in its purest and most simple form.

The recipe that I tried and that I’ll be sharing below is the “official” recipe that the delegation of Asti registered with the Accademia Italiana della Cucina in 2005. The quantities of the ingredients that I use are mostly from this version. Although, they seem to be a bit of a standard in many recipes that I saw in Italian. With the exception of the ingredients for the sauce and their quantities, I have written all of the other text in this post.

The meaning of Bagna Cauda

Before I share the recipe and discuss the preparation, I hope you can humor me as I geek out a bit about the history of the dish. I, at least, find it fascinating!

Let’s start with the name. Bagna Cauda literally translates to “hot sauce” in English. Unfortunately, it is often mistranslated as “hot bath.” (“Bagno” being the word for a bath in Italian.) “Bagna” (ending in “a”) in the Piedmontese dialect means sauce and “cauda” is the dialect word for hot versus “calda” in standard Italian. Therefore, Bagna Cauda would be Salsa Calda, as in hot sauce. (Hot temperature, not spice!) Phew.

Some background…

Said to have originated in the Middle Ages, no one knows for certain the origins of the dish. A theory that I saw repeatedly is that Bagna Cauda was served as a way to celebrate the end of the grape harvest. With that, it was also a way to enjoy the new, young wine. Other sources say that the vine-growers may have served Bagna Cauda as a form of payment for the laborers of the harvest. Due to its abundance of garlic, the nobles wouldn’t touch it. Bagna Cauda was strictly for the poor.

Another theory is that salt and anchovy merchants coming from Provence brought the recipe with them and adapted it from Anchoïade, a dish still eaten today. It too is a sauce with a base of anchovy but is eaten raw and eaten in summer versus the fall. Whatever the origin or the sentiments about the dish in the past, since the 1900s it has become accepted and appreciated by all. Nowadays, it is a very important dish in the Piedmontese culinary repertoire.

Nobody likes taxes…

One last historical tidbit that I found very interesting. Salt in Piedmont was imported because the region is landlocked. It was very heavily taxed, so savvy traders came up with a crafty way to avoid paying the tax. What they would do is put a layer of anchovies on the top of the salt to cover it up! Then, the salt went to the nobility and the anchovies went to the peasants. Fascinating, right? This could have been the introduction of anchovies in the area. Today, they are indispensable in the local cuisine. Food history is so cool…

The sauce ingredients

OK. Now, let’s talk about the sauce. For the purest and possibly most traditional version they are as follows:

• Garlic
• Extra virgin olive oil (some use a touch of walnut oil, see below)
• Salt-packed anchovies

Let’s break each ingredient down:

• Garlic – I use a whole, large head of garlic per person. Some use less. It needs to be firm and the best quality you can find. No stinky, sprouting, old garlic here. Also, no pre-peeled garlic. It is often smelly, off-tasting, and devoid of its essential oils. I’m not going to lie, dealing with the garlic is the most labor-intensive part of the dish. It’s not difficult but time-consuming. You need to peel each clove, then cut out the germ, which is bitter, then thinly slice the garlic. You may need help with this. Make the communal aspect of this dish apply to the kitchen as well! A silicone garlic peeler helps a lot with this task.
• Extra virgin olive oil – the liquid in your sauce should be good quality extra virgin olive oil. In the past, Piedmont actual had olive trees and local oil, but that was a long time ago. Currently, they use oil from neighboring Liguria. Ligurian oil is very delicate and is a bit of a splurge. Do what you can. Some people insist that since Piedmont has no olive oil that one should use walnut oil and that it is more “authentic” this way. You could use a mix. I will give the quantities that I use below.
• Salt-packed anchovies – you’re probably getting the idea that with a 3 ingredient sauce that the quality needs to be high for each one. There’s no hiding bad quality ingredients with a recipe like this. I adore anchovies in oil but, for this preparation, you should to try and track down salt-packed anchovies. They are meatier, plumper and if you clean them well, actually taste less salty. The most coveted anchovies are from Cantabria, Spain. In Italian, you will see them called Acciughe Rosse di Spagna. They are spectacular but hard to find in the US salt-packed. Barring those, try to find Ligurian or Sicilian salt-packed anchovies. If you live near Meditteranean populations like Italians or Greeks, for example, you can find them at deli counters and you can ask the vendor to sell you only as much as you need without having to buy a can of them. You can find canned Sicilian ones online.

Sauce additions

For recipe purists, the only other addition to this version of the sauce that seemed “legal” to people was a touch of butter, added at the end. Last year, when I made it, I added it, and it was lovely. Last week, Vanessa was visiting again and I made Bagna Cauda with the addition of some walnut oil. After tasting it at the end of cooking, I thought that it was rich enough due to the walnut oil and skipped the butter. Both variations were excellent. Ah, so dreamy…

Variations of Bagna Cauda

Considering how long I’ve already blabbed, I’m only going to briefly talk about other Bagna Cauda recipes.

It’s not uncommon to see some Piedmontese cooks add cream at the end of cooking. Purists think this influence from France is less than desirable, but it’s done in certain areas. The version that I tried in Turin had a touch and the sauce was pureed at the end. It was delicious. Some people think that it makes the sauce less potent, others think it helps with digestion, others think it worsens it… I’ve read many arguments about this! Other people soak and/or cook the garlic in milk or water first, then add the softened garlic to the oil. As I said, the version below is the most authentic Bagna Cauda recipe that I could find and the traditionalists seem happy with this preparation!

Other additions include adding chopped walnuts or hazelnuts at the end. I think that’d be delicious.

The vegetables

Now, we can talk about the vegetables typically served with Bagna Cauda! As I mentioned above, you serve this sauce with an accompaniment of raw and cooked fall veggies. I went all out and served about 7-8 kinds of cooked vegetables, plus 8-9 raw. That is absolutely not necessary! As long as you serve a variety of 5-6 kinds of vegetables, plus some crusty bread, you’ll be set. If however, you have a group of people helping you and you make this only once a year, you can go nuts too! This is a good time to go to your Farmer’s Market. Everything should be super fresh and flavorful.

The raw vegetables

Here are some of the typical options for the raw vegetables:

• Sliced red or yellow bell peppers
• Belgian endive
• Radicchio
• Savoy, red, or green cabbage
• Scallions, placed in a glass with some Barbera wine in it
• Radishes
• Carrots
• Celery
• Fennel
• Cardoons (see below)
• Jerusalem artichoke (see below)

The cardoons and the Jerusalem artichoke are two of the most important accompaniments to a traditional Bagna Cauda but I don’t suggest tracking them down. The cardoons in particular. In Piedmont, they use a variety called the Cardo Gobbo di Nizza Monferrato. That ingredient is impossible to find outside of the area. I tried last year to buy local, Bolognese cardoons and they were so bitter that I had to throw them out. Don’t bother.

The Jerusalem artichokes (called ciapinabo in dialect) are also difficult to find and can cause dreadful gastro issues for some people. Frankly, I would avoid them as well unless you really know how to clean and prepare them. If you are courageous, they are to be served whole, raw and thinly sliced by the guest. Again, don’t kill yourself.

Also note, for some, the flavor of celery and fennel are a little strong for Bagna Cauda. I agree with the critics but will still serve them both going forward. My husband adored them.

The cooked vegetables

When serving a Bagna Cauda, you don’t want to miss out on the deliciousness of the cooked veggies that go with it:

• Cauliflower
• Potatoes (out of this world)
• Bell peppers, roasted (a must)
• Onions, roasted (so good…)
• Winter squash, such as butternut squash, fried or roasted (a favorite)
• Beets (not my fave)

Other items

Here are some non-vegetable items to serve with your meal:

• Crusty bread is a must.
• I also adore serving this with hard-boiled egg wedges. Eggs and anchovies are magical together. Sublime.
• If you are a polenta fan, you can slice prepared polenta and bake it in the oven with a drizzle of oil on top, until browned. This could be a good gluten-free option.

How to enjoy Bagna Cauda

Why is this dish so festive and special? Think of how fun it is to eat fondue with a large group of people at a party and you will get the gist.

A big bowl of the Bagna Cauda is brought to the table, warm. Traditionally, it’s prepared and served in terra cotta. All of the vegetable accompaniments are surrounding it. There is Piedmontese wine, such as Barbera d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Alba, Nebbiolo, or Barbaresco. Then, everyone has their own plate and a little fondue-like server called a Fujòt, Fuyot, Fojot, or Tupin (Fornellino in Italian). You place a votive candle in the base of it to keep the sauce warm, ladle some sauce into your fujòt and start grabbing your favorite vegetables to dip. It is so festive!!

With the individual burners, you don’t have to worry about double-dipping! If you don’t have them though, just use ramekins and scoop in a little sauce at a time to keep the sauce warm.

Some people at the end of the meal in order to not waste any of the sauce in their serving dishes scramble a regular or quail’s egg in the fujòt. My husband did that last year and was a happy man.

Notes on Terra Cotta

As I mentioned, traditionally and ideally, the sauce is cooked in terra cotta. Since the sauce needs to be cooked slowly and gently, it’s the perfect vessel. If you have a curiosity about cooking in terra cotta, it’s not expensive at all. I used to see it all of the time at stores like TJ Maxx when I lived in the US. I’m certainly not going to tell anyone to go buy anything but if you are tempted… You will not be disappointed with the results. Food cooked in earthenware is rather magical. The terra cotta seems to coax out food’s innate sweetness. With this sauce that could be overly pungent otherwise, this is a good thing.

Some basics

You need to soak the terra cotta for 12 hours before using it the first time. Italian pots are usually glazed and lead-free. You don’t need to season them. While cooking, you need to use a heat diffuser as terra cotta pots are delicate and can break due to rapid changes in temperature. You need to heat them very gently and slowly. The Bagna Cauda will surely take more time in terra cotta but while your sauce cooks, you can prepare all of your vegetables and set the table.

The fujòt burners can be in terra cotta or ceramic. I am nuts, so I have both because I found them cheaply. I now have 4 of each kind, ready for my next Bagna Cauda party! For normal people, you can cook the sauce in a heavy-bottomed pan like a Dutch oven or a good stainless steel pan.

Tradition

The recipe that I’m sharing is how it’s prepared in many areas in Piedmont. I’m not modifying either the technique or the ingredients to simplify this for people outside of Italy. I feel that it’s important for someone to write about these traditional recipes in English without modifying them. Sometimes if you want the correct results, you need to just make it the way it’s done in its place of origin! It’s a bit of a project, I admit, but it’s so worth it! Ask my cousin! She had to peel all of that garlic this year… Keep in mind that this is a one-dish meal. You won’t need to prepare anything else!

Bagna Cauda Day!!

So, why am I writing about this now? ‘Tis the season! More specifically, this weekend starting tomorrow is Bagna Cauda Day! An initiative started in 2013 in Piedmont, Bagna Cauda Day is actually a weekend-long celebration of Bagna Cauda, worldwide. Participating restaurants will serve a traditional Bagna Cauda for a set price. Visit here if you are in the area, to see if you can book a spot at one of these restaurants. If you are interested in visiting Turin, please read my post about this city.

Don’t despair if you are not in Piedmont at the moment! Prepare this authentic Bagna Cauda recipe yourself this weekend and get in on the fun! Without further ado, I give you, the recipe! Happy Bagna Cauda Day!

Bagna Cauda (Piedmontese Warm Anchovy & Garlic Sauce)

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Serves: 6

Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Rating: 5.0/5

( 3 voted )

Ingredients

• For the sauce:
• 6 large heads of garlic, peeled, germ removed, thinly sliced
• 300 grams salt-packed anchovies
• red wine to clean and cover the anchovies
• 600 grams extra virgin olive oil, or a combo of 500 grams extra virgin olive oil, with 100 grams walnut oil
• butter, optional, to taste
• Options for the raw vegetables:
• Sliced red or yellow bell peppers
• Belgian endive
• Radicchio
• Savoy, red, or green cabbage
• Scallions, placed in a glass with some Barbera wine in it
• Radishes
• Carrots
• Celery
• Fennel
• Options for the cooked vegetables:
• Potatoes, boiled, peeled, and sliced
• Beets, cooked and sliced
• Butternut squash, fried or roasted, and sliced
• Onions, roasted whole, then peeled and cut into wedges
• Bell peppers, roasted and cut into wide strips
• Cauliflower, cooked until tender, yet firm, cut into florets
• Other optional accompaniments:
• Eggs, hard-boiled and cut into wedges
• bread
• polenta, sliced and baked until browned

Instructions

1. Start by cleaning the anchovies. Some use water to clean salted anchovies but many Bagna Cauda recipes insist on cleaning them delicately by hand and in red wine. First, delicately remove the salt and most of the skin with your fingers or a paring knife, pull off the dorsal fin and carefully open the anchovy like a book. Remove the bones and tail. Place the fillets in a dish in a single layer and cover with red wine. In the red wine, you can further remove any salt or bones that remain. When done, dry the anchovies well with a kitchen towel. If doing this in advance, place the prepped anchovies in the refrigerator until ready to use.
2. Once your garlic and anchovies are prepped, you can start cooking the sauce. Add the garlic with about a cup of the oil to your cooking vessel over low heat. Heat slowly and once hot but not frying or browning, add the anchovies and the rest of the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally until the anchovies have dissolved and the garlic is tender enough to smash to a cream with a fork or the back of a wooden spoon. This will take about an hour. Some cook the mixture less, some as much as two hours. If preparing this in terra cotta, it will take longer because earthenware pots take longer to heat up. Make sure that your sauce cooks very gently. It's not supposed to ever fry or brown.
3. Once the sauce is cooked, you can serve it as is or blend with an immersion blender if you want a smooth sauce.
4. At this point, you can add a pat of butter, if you wish.
5. Serve the sauce warm with the raw and cooked vegetables, bread and red Piedmontese wine.

Notes

This recipe can be scaled easily. Use the following quantities per person: 1 large head of garlic, 50 grams of salt-packed anchovies, 100 ml extra virgin olive oil, 1 pat of butter.